The idea for a bike ride to raise awareness and possible funding came to me a few months ago and was pitched to the volunteers already involved with the case of Ali Khan at the G.I.C (for more information on the case of Ali Khan please check out the November '08 Gwangju News article 'Introducing... The Justice for Ali Khan Campaign').
Over the previous months the Korean language blog has generated a sufficient number of hits to gather over 700 signatures protesting for a total legal review of the sentencing of prisoner #3390 Ali Khan at Daejeon prison. I'm very proud that over 700 Koreans and foreigners living in Korea have had faith in the information we have brought to them over the last while. The next step, it seemed to me, would be an event to mark our own collective commitment to Ali Khan's cause and to bring further awareness to the case of Ali Khan in the hope of a human rights lawyer giving proper legal attention to this case.
The bike ride was to begin in Gwangju and to arrive two days later at the gates of Daejeon prison, approximately 205 km north of Gwangju. With this first event we thought it best to involve ourselves closely with members from the Gwangju YMCA who had already planned an incredibly ambitious bike ride for the beginning of July. They were to cycle from Haenam to Gosong Reunification Observatory in Gangwondo and we had thought to join them for the Gwangju to Daejeon leg of the journey. The riders who had joined us were: [show photo] Gwak Hyo Sung, Daniel Baek, Julian Warmington, Kim So Ri and Jong Il.
It did not start well, however. A punctured tire somewhere on the outskirts of Cheomdan in the pitch black marred our arrival at the exit point for our trip. For a dreaded hour it looked like without a supplier to get me a new tire having my bike make the 120 km ride to Jeonju the following evening would be a miracle. With hasty visits to two bike shops we patched up the puncture as best we could and I and Jong Il arrived two hours late at the YMCA where the rest of the YMCA riders had arrived from Haenam earlier that evening. The only thing to give me confidence was Jong Il, relating to me the Korean expression 'A small accident before a big event brings one luck'. If only we Brits could be so optimistic!
I awoke, after barely three hours sleep, to a large breakfast in the basement of the Cheomdan YMCA. We were to leave an hour before an interview and photos had been planned. I crossed fingers that we'd relay what needed to be relayed later on into the trip.
And so it was, on the morning of Tuesday 7th July 6 riders from the G.I.C and 35 assorted riders from the YMCA walked out into the pouring rain in a strange attempt to cycle to Jeonju. And rain it did. Gutters streamed to bursting in the 7am half-dawn, streams burst their banks and glasses were repeatedly wiped from under tenuously protective plastic hoods. After an hour of cycling we found ourselves among the morning traffic of highway 1 heading north out of Gwangju. Either because of the rain or in order to keep the entire group together we stopped every hour or so to regroup, snack, and/or relate the newest horror story. About twenty km north of Gwangju we stopped at a small Mart and found cover, watching the rains pummel the trees and cars unfortunate enough to be out on this particular morning in time.
Three hours in the heavy rains lightened and the act of rain, after all this time, seemed to be less of a problem. Although we'd all been fearful that the YMCA's pace would leave us tired out after an hour the speed of our two-tiered convoy was actually bearable. The YMCA proved amazing at organizing how our convoy was to push ahead towards Jonju. Batons were produced at each major junction and elected individuals made sure no one strayed from the route. Shouts of encouragement (along with the rain) sprayed the air at every major incline, and even the worst prepared person, by lunch time, would have felt a little more secure travelling with the YMCA's more experienced cyclists.
A hastily prepared speech in Jeongup, after lunch, communicated to the YMCA's riders what we were in this for. Ali Khan, a citizen of Pakistan had been held in Daejeon prison for over six years as a result of a badly executed trial and confessions gained under police torture.
Legs ached but no one tired too visibly after lunch. North of Jeongup we hit that steep obstacle known as Galchae San and, as the rain came down lightly we all (slowly!) made it to the top... to be met by the brilliant view of the largely flat lands of Jeollabukdo. While the rain continued the wonderful view gave one pause for thought and a certain delight in attempting a journey that wasn't from behind the comfort of a train of bus window. Cycling, for me, gives you the sense of accomplishment that, yes, you've actually completed distances due to your own efforts. It also affords you the time to really consider the reasons for doing such a thing... in this way, a confirmation of the problems and setbacks of the case of Ali Khan, as well as giving you confidence in your own goal of wanting a fair trial for a hugely mistaken prisoner.
These were the thoughts that circled through my head as we made our way across the first 50 kms towards Jeonju. Four hours of further cycling and we found ourselves joining the busy rush hour traffic of Jeonju, having completed the first 120 km of our trek. So Tuesday had been the hardest day. Tomorrow would be easier.
In the morning I woke to the news that my bike had finally, and once again, given in to another puncture and I was obliged to borrow a spare bike from the YMCA riders while we tried to work out what had gone wrong with it (it turned out the tires had worn through so fast that I would have to buy new ones in Daejeon). In reality I wondered how my back tire even managed the 120 km to Jeonju without any problems. After a still-wet start we completed our daily morning exercises (a kind of elaborate pre-football 'dance' to these British eyes) and cycled out onto highway one again.
North of Nonsan we had lunch and re-grouped... texts and calls were made to bloggers and reporters and then... yes. Unbelievable. Sunshine! The fifty kilometres north of Nonsan, and on into Daejeon, proved to present us with exactly the opposite problems. Heat. Sunburn. I walked for ten minutes into our next break stop 30 km south of Daejeon. The heat was doing it to everyone. Water bottles were suddenly everywhere. The mild (but long!) inclines south of Daejeon proved incredibly debilitating and so we were glad, two hours later (at around 3:30pm) to finally arrive on the road into Yuseong, just south of Daejeon, where Ali Khan is imprisoned. We took photos with the YMCA and said our farewells (they would need it, they had another 70km to Chongju that day!).
With only five people confirmed as able to meet Ali Khan on Thursday morning Julian and I, with the help of Jong Il, scrabbled a late appointment with a still-confused and depressed Ali Khan at 4pm on Wednesday afternoon. My impression of Ali Khan on this visit was similar to what was reported in Brian Deutsch's blog the week previous. There was talk of Khan 'going mad' or being 'severely depressed' but the reality, as ever, is a little harder to unpick. Ali Khan has become isolated, firstly, from potential visitors to the prison (in his own words he has not received any other visitors than those connected with his campaign in over 18 months) and also from those inside the prison. The person that originally confessed to the murder Khan is in prison for; Samiullah Salamat; has, for the most part, turned away from the regret he displayed four years ago (when he wrote his confession) and is now deeply resentful of Ali's presence in the prison and has convinced more than one foreign prisoner that Ali is indeed the killer that he has been painted as by the authorities. This about-turn has caused such fear in Khan that he has, on occasion, wholeheartedly believed that Salamat, or someone close to Salamat, was going to 'stab him' at the next available opportunity. I and Julian both left feeling that talking with Ali was now a very complex procedure and requires patience and sympathy...
After a longwinded search for accomodation, the long-needed bike shop repair, and a late dinner we each concluded our day.
Early morning, and without any discernible ring around the prison we decide to use the approach road as our symbolic ring, travelling up and down six times, each circle for each year of Khan's incarceration. Any laps made within the prison grounds could not be photographed/documented so this route seemed to be the best plan (even our photos taken at/near the gate, with a zoom lense, were intensely argued about by the guards on duty).The rain started up again on the third lap and by lap six the group is pretty much soaked to the skin. With a lot of effort, though, all six of us make it into the prison, with five of us meeting Ali Khan (three of whom meeting him for the first time).
Hope is sometimes a painful thing to allow in one so abused. So it is with Ali Khan. Khan's continuing isolation from many inside the prison, and, as I mentioned above, Salamat's almost total about-turn from accuser, to regretful confessor, back to cold psychological games player who now holds the threat that Ali is now a wanted man in Pakistan over Ali (without any attainable evidence) must have a lot to do with Khan's continuing confusion, along with the bombings of Pakistan by U.S military that assure him (?) he perhaps will not be able to see his home country in the near future.
What is apparent after my last four visits (in quick succession) is that Khan is not at all 'insane' in any way. He is simply a person who is incredibly nervous and worried for his own safety both in prison in the present, and possibly outside (if he is released). Now that the situation in Pakistan has worsened he sees no 'home' to go back to.
He's also been convinced by Salamat that, if he returns, he will be convicted for 'unspecified crimes' in Pakistan. No option holds much promise, and this is why Khan seems preoccupied and sometimes finds it hard to be swayed by efforts made on his behalf. All these things attest to his pain, both in his local outlook and his international outlook. The campaign will continue to look for ways his case can be transmitted to others, particularly lawyers able to take on a case of this kind, while taking into account Ali's future well being.
More actions are planned in the next few months, with another sponsored event hopefully organised for the beginning of September (all info via the GIC website, Ali Khan blog or from me directly at andrewodonnell77@yahoo.co.uk). For foreigners, there was also some talk of 'political events' like these affecting those on E-2 visas, either with trouble from Hagwon or University bosses/authorities. To my knowledge actions like these are entirely legal provided one has given notice of any time away from work. Without a doubt they are entirely legal under Korean law and, if any of those participating in future events do have future problems rest assured I will be happy to visit them with Korean representatives/translators to explain how I see these actions, and foreigners' participation in them.
We are also currently looking for volunteers who are able to put in a few hours every week towards different campaign goals, particularly website designers, translators and potential visitors to Ali Khan... particularly someone in Daejeon who could spend some time with him every week in the absence of any English speaking counselor being provided by the prison service in Daejeon. A newsletter is also in the offing from Aug/Sept.
http://www.petitiononline.com/FreeAli
(Online petition in English, just sign your name and add your email)
http://profile.blog.naver.com/gwangjugic
(Information on Ali's case in Korean)
http://free-ali.blogspot.com
(Information on Ali's case in English)
We are also now collecting money for a human rights lawyer for Ali Khan. For this, you can donate directly to the Ali Khan Fund Account at: 019 107 329298 (Gwangju Bank/Gwangju International Centre)
Thanks go to: Kim Sing Sing at GIC for all the logistics and information gathering, all at the YMCA for their comradeship and support along the way, Michael and Ju Hyun at GFN for their reports and interest, Gwangju Dream, Brian Deutsch at 'Brian in Jeollanamdo', Jo McPherson at 'ZenKimchi', and Kimberly Hogg at 'Socius' for blogging on the event at the last minute, Kim So Ri and Hwan for Ali's brilliant Korean blog design and the petition here in Korea, Audrey Pecott for her continued support and tireless work on the English blog, Jong Il for T-shirt and pamphlet designs, many of the artists at Daein Market for support and encouragement, Mr. Kim Dong Jo for donating a pair of cycling gloves to me in Jongeup on the way back (sore palms after over 100km into the return journey) and, mostly, to everyone who took part in the event itself.